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The Club produces a regular English translation of the Chamonix conditions report from La Chamoniarde to help climbers without an understanding of French to access up-to-date information on conditions in the valley. An archive of these reports can be seen below: 

 

Report: 20 December 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 20 December 2024.

Welcome to winter!
 
It's official: it's coming on Saturday night, with its procession of snowflakes. Get out your skis and scrapers, and let's get started!
 
Last night, around 20cm fell at Lognan, 30cm at La Flégère and 30cm at Montenvers. On the other hand, the strong winds at altitude have also been doing their bit, increasing the risk of avalanches (the département is under yellow alert, so be careful!).
 
The first layers of snow are not very deep, so if you venture off-piste, it's best to stay light on your skis.
 
Some routes are already in good condition, such as towards Bel Oiseau or in the area around the Refuge des Prés, which opens tomorrow. Be careful, though: you'll need a good level of skiing for some of the final sections, such as the Bérard valley, the return via Point de Vue or the bottom of the Posettes.
 
In Les Houches, the marked itinerary for ski touring has been modified by decree: it is now compulsory to start from Maisonneuve. Departures from the Prarion are only permitted between 5pm and 9pm.
 
On the Argentière glacier, the Col du Tour Noir and Col d'Argentière have better snow cover than the Col du Chardonnet, but beware of crevasses that are only just covered.
 
The good news is that all the ski lifts will be open from tomorrow, including the Aiguille du Midi. The snow up there is in good condition, but the crevasses are still wide open, so be careful.
 
For fans of ice climbing, some waterfalls and gullies have already formed, such as on the Aiguille des Pélerins, under the Chardonnet and on the left bank of the Argentière glacier. The Bérard waterfall is still forming: it's too thin to climb, so we kindly ask you not to play!
 
As far as hiking is concerned, it's the winter truce: avoid the heights and keep your hiking boots inside. The Charme loop at Les Houches is already open, and the Index and Raverettaz loops at La Flégère will be open tomorrow. The valley floor circuits should be ready after Sunday's precipitation.
 
Enjoy your skiing!
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 29 November 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 29 November 2024.
 
Well it started OK!
 
But as the weather warmed up, the snow disappeared at valley level and is also retreating on southerly slopes. It rained on Thursday 29/11 up to around 2,000/2,300m and the snow cover is waterlogged below that altitude. 
 
Higher up, there was a little snow: around 10cm at around 2,500m and around 15cm of wind blown snow in the high mountains.
 
The snow cover is now generally poor and very patchy, with a total of 35/40cm at 2,000m, and around 70cm at around 2,500m.
 
You can hike up to around 1500m, provided you are well shod and equipped with poles (the paths are still very slippery in the shade and sometimes icy). Small hiking crampons may be useful at the bottom of your rucksack, depending on the slopes.
 
A few ideas: petits balcons nord and sud - Bérard - Chapeau - Dard - Cerro - Floria - Les Granges chalets - Charousse chalets - Lac Vert and Ayères chalets ...
 
If you go higher, put on your snowshoes or crampons as you hike to the Chailloux or Loriaz chalets.
 
In the Le Tour sector, theres a lot of skis on/skis off. In a word, "marginal" below 1,800m.
 
So you can see that the marked ski touring and snowshoeing routes are not yet up and running!
 
The ski lifts are still closed for the time being. Only the Montenvers train will open tomorrow, Saturday 30 November.
 
As far as alpine activities are concerned, Beyond Good and Evil has been visited over the last few days without any further information. No other recent feedback!
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 22 November 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 22 November 2024.


It's here! In the space of a week, the landscape has been completely transformed and we are now almost fully into winter.

The storms of the last few days have deposited more than 60cm of very wind blown snow around 2,000m (gusts of 125km/h recorded overnight in the Flégère sector and near the village of Le Tour).

There was around 90cm of snow around 2,300m (difficult to measure) with large accumulations and areas of scoured snow. The wind has wreaked havoc in all directions and the snowpack looks set to be very patchy...

Don't forget to take a look at the webcams!

 

The ground is just whitened at the bottom of the valley. So you'll have to walk (or pedal) to get on your skis, as all the lifts in the valley are still closed for the moment. But just enough to have a ski at Le Tour (before the forecasted thaw). On that subject, watch out for the  coming sudden rise in temperatures.

 

So we are gradually getting going but with no base depending on the altitude (bring your pebble skis ;)

 

Hiking is coming to an end (you need to stay below 1,500m and be well equipped). We can see you coming with your snowshoes: it might be worth taking them with you if you want to go up to Chailloux or Loriaz.

There is still not enough snow on the marked ski touring/snowshoeing routes.

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 31 October 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 31 October 2024.

The anticyclone has waited until winter to come back! Even though the days are getting shorter and shorter, it's nice to be able to enjoy this late Indian summer.
 
This is an opportunity to give you some brief information on the eve of the long weekend.
 
 
All high and “moyenne” mountain huts are now closed, with the exception of the Torino hut (closing this Sunday, November 4).
 
As far as lifts are concerned, now is the time to take advantage of the Montenvers train (free all weekend) and the Aiguille du Midi, which will close this Sunday. The Flégère gondola will remain open until November 11.
 
Hiking offers incredible colours and contrasts at the moment. There's no snow below 3,000m, so everything's going well. Bear in mind that all the refuges and most of the ski lifts are closed. For those planning to bivouac, the nights are cool (frost is forecast right down to the valley floor), so pack a good sleeping bag! In general, remember to pack warm clothes (it's hot in the sun, but it cools off quickly!)
 
High mountain activity has picked up! The bad weather of late summer/early autumn has given the mountains a chance to recover. The glaciers are relatively well filled in, but beware of the potentially still fragile snow bridges (ditto for the rimayes). We're still able to get around fairly well on foot. The faces, couloirs and gullies are on the whole well filled, even if it's sometimes unconsolidated snow/sugar and little ice.
 
Around the Aiguille du Midi, the N face of Le Tacul was retracked yesterday (steeper and more technical than usual, especially on the descent, keep right to avoid the ice). Not very attractive for skiing.
 
Midi-Plan looks tracked as far as the Rognon! Excellent conditions on the Cosmiques arête!
 
On the triangle du Tacul the Chéré, Perroux, Infidèle are all being climbed, on the Lachenal, Pellissier and M6 Solar are in good condition. One team found the right window for the Afanassief-Bodin (report in our logbook). Modica-Noury with summit exit also in good conditions (previous attempts had resulted in a difficult rimaye). Pinocchio also climbed, with lots of snow but little protection. No information on the more distant goulottes, but don't hesitate to check them out to avoid overcrowding. In this respect, the Simond shelter looks set to be packed for the weekend.
 
The south face of the Aiguille du Midi and the eperon des Cosmiques (mixed exit!) can be climbed again.
 
Good conditions on the traverse of the Dômes de Miage from the Aiguille de la Bérangère. Ditto on the Bionnassay traverse. The Conscrits footbridge will be dismantled (entirely) in the course of next week.
 
The Mont Blanc normal route via the Aiguille du Goûter is seeing traffic (particularly in alpine/paragliding combo). Snow starts at the Tête Rousse. Good snow conditions for the ascent of the Goûter and for the rest of the route (no information on the passage of the mauvais arête).
 
Moulin "de la caméra” on the Mer de Glace is still dangerous (cracked and threatening ice blade).
 
Teams on the Colton MacIntyre on the N face of the Grandes Jorasses: couic snow (squeaky snow!), little ice in the gullies, inconsistent snow in the mixed exit section. An attempt on Rêve Ephémère was abandoned after the first pitch (inconsistent snow and bad ice). Descent via the couloir on the left bank of the serac. Reminder: Mont Blanc tunnel closed!
 
No news from the Couvercle sector (Whymper couloir on the Aiguille Verte) or the Argentière basin, but we're keen to hear from you!
 
The Le Tour glacier basin is busy. Access to the Albert 1er refuge is snow free. The Aiguille du Tour normal route is busy, but we have no further information. Several teams on the Migot spur, said to be in good condition (some descent belays hidden under the snow). Watch out for crevasses on the approach and descent below Col Adam Reilly!
 
Don't hesitate to send us your trip reports!
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 27 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 27 September 2024.

Summary

We have autumn down here, high up it's already winter. The north faces are well plastered, unfortunately the freezing level has risen. A wind speed of 180 kilometres per hour was recorded on the Aiguille du Midi! The good news is that the snow and wind have filled up the rimayes, the bad news is that it has also camouflaged the crevasses. The story (of this wintery weather) is not finished so we will update you more asap.

Hiking

The ground is now unusually slippery for hiking even in anticyclonic periods. It's recommended to be well equipped for this.

Huts

It's the end of the season for the mountain huts, we wish them a good holiday! In the area the only refuges open from next week are the Torino, Plan de l'Aiguille, Loriaz, Tré la Tête and Les Prés.

Uplift

The Mont Blanc tramway and the panoramic close on Sunday. The Montenvers train, the Midi and the Skyway stay open until the end of October / start of November.

 

Bonne raclette!

 

 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

Report: 13 September 2024

La Chamoniarde mountain conditions report for 13 September 2024.

After autumn we get winter!

This morning, the ground was white down to 1,600m. Yesterday's snowfall of 20cm at the Aiguille du Midi and 40cm at the refuge du Goûter was caused by a strong northerly wind that has been blowing since yesterday (and is expected to continue until the beginning of next week). Beware of the risk of avalanches and precarious snow bridges.

Aiguille du Midi Web Cam, 13 September 2024
 
Hold on for rock climbing in the Mont Blanc massif and the Aiguilles Rouges. With the current temperatures, climbing (in the sun) in the Arve valley, the Aravis or down south could be a good idea!

As far as mixed routes are concerned, it's still too early, even if these snowfalls will improve conditions on some of them (the Cosmiques arête, for example).

As far as snow routes are concerned, some are still possible if the weather conditions are favourable. As a reminder, the commitment at this time of year is greater (ski lifts and refuges closed, shorter days, cold, low numbers of visitors, etc.) and getting out into the high mountains requires a solid experience of the high mountains. Don't aim for weather windows that are too short or unpredictable. 

Mont Blanc via the Goûter: The Goûter refuge closed early due to a technical problem (the winter room is now open). Fresh snow, a northerly wind forecast at 80/100km/h at 4,000m (the wind feels like ice up there): the climb looks serious.

The wintery blast is also slowing down hiking activity (which should improve as soon as the sun returns). For those of you who are keen on snowshoeing, I'm sorry, but you'll just have to wait a bit.

An overview of the status of refuges: 

Massif du Mont Blanc 

- l'Envers des Aiguilles closes on Monday 16/09
- The Argentière, Charpoua, Couvercle, Leschaux, Requin, Grands Mulets, Goûter, Durier and Plan Glacier huts are closed.  

Aiguilles Rouges

- Pierre à Bérard closed (no winter room) 

Remember to bring gas, water and food if you plan to go to an unguarded hut. 
 
Index Web Cam, 13 September 2024

As far as ski lifts are concerned, this is the last weekend for the Brévent ski area (closing on Sunday 15/09). 

The Flégère ski area remains open (closing on 22/09), as do the Montenvers train, the Aiguille du Midi + Panoramique cable cars and the Mont Blanc tramway.
 
 

Translated with kind permission from an original report by La Chamoniarde.

Readers are reminded that conditions in mountain environments are prone to (sometimes rapid) change and that they should use their own best judgement when visiting them.

 

 

 

More Articles ...

  1. Report: 6 September 2024
  2. Report: 31 August 2024
  3. Report: 23 August 2024
  4. Report: 16 August 2024
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